Aotearoa New Zealand’s fashion scene is witnessing a renaissance, not of trends or styles, but of values.
Māori designers, drawing from their rich cultural heritage and deep-rooted respect for the whenua (land), are leading the contemporary movement towards a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry. They are redefining luxury by intertwining traditional techniques with circular economy principles, proving that beauty and responsibility can co-exist.
This blog explores the unique stories of these Māori fashion pioneers, the transformative impact they’re having on the industry, and what others can learn from them.
The cultural significance of Māori textiles and its connection to sustainability
Māori worldviews are deeply rooted in the concept of kaitiakitanga, or guardianship of the natural world. This philosophy emphasises the interconnectedness of humans and the environment, promoting responsible resource management and sustainable practices. As such, Māori culture places a high value on sustainability and resourcefulness, understanding the importance of living in balance with nature.
Traditional Māori weaving, or ‘raranga’, is an art form that exemplifies this value through its deep intertwining with cultural identity and storytelling. Using natural materials such as harakeke (flax) and muka (prepared flax fibre), Māori weavers have created intricate garments, adornments, and accessories that carry deep symbolic meaning for millennia.
The practice of raranga itself reflects a profound respect for the environment and the interconnectedness of all living things. Each piece of weaving doesn’t just serve a practical purpose in everyday life but a symbolic significance to wider Māori culture. For instance, kete (baskets) symbolise the carrying of knowledge and wisdom, and Korowai (traditional cloaks) serve as mantles of honour, prestige, and leadership.
Modern Māori fashion designers championing sustainability
Today, a new generation of Māori fashion designers is carrying this legacy forward, infusing sustainable practices into contemporary Māori fashion design. These designers embrace environmental sustainability by utilising natural and locally sourced materials, minimising waste, and prioritising ethical production methods. They draw inspiration from traditional Māori techniques and patterns, creating garments that are both beautiful and culturally significant.
Kiri Nathan (Kiri Nathan, Kāhui Collective)
Kiri Nathan, whose designs have been worn by luminaries such as former New Zealand Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern, is renowned for her exquisite designs that blend traditional Māori fashion artistry with contemporary aesthetics. Sustainability lies at the heart of her brand, evident in her use of natural fibres like merino wool, linen, and silk. Likewise, Nathan’s commitment to a ‘made-to-order’ approach minimises waste, reduces overproduction, and promotes conscious consumption. She also champions ethical production methods, ensuring fair treatment of workers throughout the supply chain.
Jeanine Clarkin (Jeanine Clarkin)
Jeanine Clarkin seamlessly integrates sustainable practices into her fashion collections. She actively seeks out eco-friendly materials, such as organic cotton and recycled fabrics, minimising the environmental impact of her designs. Clarkin also prioritises ethical production, partnering with local manufacturers who adhere to fair labour practices. Her creations often incorporate traditional Māori motifs and techniques, showcasing the beauty of cultural heritage and sustainable design.
Adrienne Whitewood (Adrienne Whitewood)
Adrienne Whitewood, a passionate advocate for sustainable fashion, demonstrates her commitment through her mindful design choices. She employs upcycled materials and deadstock fabrics, breathing new life into discarded textiles and reducing waste. Whitewood’s designs often feature hand-woven elements, showcasing the artistry of traditional Māori weaving and promoting slow fashion practices. Her dedication to sustainability extends beyond materials, with a focus on creating timeless pieces that transcend fleeting trends.
Sustainability and circular economy principles in fashion
There’s no question of ‘why’ environmental sustainability is important in the fashion industry, but the question of
‘how’ to achieve this goal still has no sole, singular answer.
One increasingly popular approach is the circular economy model, which aims to eliminate waste and pollution by keeping products and materials in use for as long as possible.
So, what are some of the circular economy principles increasingly seen in the industry?
The core principles of the circular economy in fashion include designing for longevity, using sustainable materials, promoting repair and reuse, and facilitating recycling and upcycling. Practices such as reuse, repair, and recycling all encourage a more sustainable approach to clothing consumption. A prime example is the practice of upcycling vintage garments or repurposing textile waste into new products, thereby extending the life of materials and reducing the need for new production.
How are Māori fashion principles connected to circular economy principles?
Māori fashion practices, with their emphasis on natural materials, craftsmanship, and longevity, inherently align with circular economy principles. Traditional Māori garments were often passed down through generations, repaired and repurposed as needed. This approach contrasts sharply with the fast-fashion culture prevalent today, where garments are often discarded after a few wears.
By shifting away from the disposable fast-fashion model, the circular economy is prompting a transformation in the fashion industry towards more sustainable practices. It encourages designers to rethink their design processes, prioritise durability and repairability, and explore innovative ways to close the loop on textile waste. And it’s Māori designers who can be found leading the charge.
Supporting sustainability in New Zealand’s fashion industry
Incorporating Māori perspectives and values into the New Zealand fashion industry is one way to contribute to a more sustainable and ethical fashion landscape. By supporting Māori fashion brands, designers, and ethical fashion labels that prioritise sustainable fashion materials and practices, consumers can make a positive impact. Embracing the principles of the circular economy, such as choosing durable and repairable garments, and supporting initiatives like clothing swaps and repair workshops, can also make a difference.
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