Once confined to local high streets, the pre-loved luxury goods market has expanded to a global stage, thanks to e-commerce know-how and the right partners.
Designer bags are so often worn a few times and now sit at the bottom of a wardrobe, seen a few times in public or possibly never at all. What if we told you of a company that can make great use of it? Meet The Luxury Closet.
The Luxury Closet business plan
So where do luxury goods go to get another lease of life? “People have closets full of stuff that they don’t know what to do with,” Kunal Kapoor, head of pre-loved designer fashion business The Luxury Closet told us from his office in Dubai.
“They want to be able to sell this off just to get more space and find something else.”
Classic design is one reason why the luxury second-hand Small to Medium Enterprise (SME) market is growing so fast. According to the Thred-Up report for 2017, resale fashion is now worth US$18bn and a third of women say they are happy to buy pre-owned apparel.
A new business for classic design
Fashion is only one area for The Luxury Closet. The biggest sellers are from the accessories category: “If you look at the handbag range, a vast majority has stayed the same for many, many years. The Louis Vuitton Speedy was first designed in 1940 for Audrey Hepburn. There was one small change in the shape and since then it has stayed exactly the same for many decades. That’s what makes the model work.”
Kunal set up the new business in 2012 in Dubai after a chance phone conversation with a friend. “Why can you buy a used BMW at 50% off but why can’t you buy a Louis Vuitton at 50% off? Why can you sell a car and why can’t you sell a bag?”
Growing from startup to medium-sized business
The move from ambitious startup to thriving SME requires a change of thinking though, which was front of mind for Kunal in his planning. “When the company becomes larger, there’s a lot of process to manage. The most basic is a team rhythm so we have a weekly, closed-door meeting – the entire top management and the advisor team inside a room for a few hours every week. We schedule an hour but it can be five minutes: "Everything’s good, everything’s on track – let’s go."
Make the most of free advice
So, how does a growing business acquire the skills required to progress? Kunal’s answer was surprising: “YouTube. We gather people in meetings and we go over topics and almost always there is a resource from YouTube. You want to look inside a competitor’s warehouse? YouTube. You want to learn how to do photography? There’s a Farfetch review. There are lots of resources there."
Kunal admits that not everything can be learned online: "Sometimes, you just have to throw yourself into it. The best way to learn to be a general manager is to be a general manager … I don’t think I have ever headed into a week not knowing the three must-dos for the week – or for the day – or gone to sleep not knowing my calendar for the next day – or the week.”
Think ahead
Kunal also has some sound advice, based on experience learned the hard way, about setting up for the future. “For every single key role, try to hire for a few years down the line – you see how fast people will grow. For every process, and technology as well, when you’re building it, think a year, two years down the line – think of the scale. “We started with a Wordpress website we kind of relied on and it was completely not scalable. Everything we had done from 2013 to 2015, we threw away and started again."
Go fishing in a big pond
So, having built The Luxury Closet into a multi-million dollar business in a little over five years, what advice would he give to others starting on the road to launching their own SME? “A critical mistake is starting a model where there is a small market. Dubai has become a very exciting place to start a company – with the eco-system for small businesses to start and grow. Dubai has the highest per capita spend on luxury items in the world. People buy higher-end things, so they’re more special, and they buy more things on average so need to have a bigger wardrobe. The other two markets are the United States and Saudi Arabia.”